Cesária Évora, the soul of Cape Verde.

Traveling through the archipelago, each island tells a different story and has its own melody. But there is one voice capable of uniting the spirit of all Cape Verde and its people: that of Cesária Évora.

They called her the Barefoot Diva , and she brought Morna to the world, the slow, mellow musical genre said to have originated in Boa Vista, from the yearning of the lighthouse keeper on Morro Negro. Thus, in her inimitable singing, on the magnetic wave of Kriol, many were able to at least sense, or perhaps even get to know, the small, enchanting islands of the Atlantic.

Her voice conveys above all the feeling of sodade (saudade), that mixture of nostalgia and sadness that grips those who remain and those who leave, so important for a land of migrants. But it also reveals the beauty and culture of Cape Verde, which Cesária always wanted to reach audiences abroad, performing early on with mixed success in Portugal, then triumphing in Paris and then around the world.

Let's pay homage to her by traveling in her footsteps, to the places where she lived, meeting those who worked with her, those who appreciated her, and those who frequented her. Mindelo is her city, and her music and voice are echoed in the murals that portray her, in her house museum, and in the venues where she sang.

In Mindelo looking for his roots

Cesária Évora Museum: The museum dedicated to the Diva is a must-see. Here you can admire her clothes (often without shoes, hence her nickname), numerous awards, and photographs that retrace her life.

Murals and Portraits: Walking through the streets of Mindelo, especially near Rua Lisboa , you come across murals dedicated to her.

Historic Venues: Mindelo boasts a vibrant nightlife scene . Exploring the venues where Cesária performed as a young woman, often behind the bar, allows you to relive the atmosphere that shaped her talent.

Boa Vista: traces of Cesária and special encounters

L'embuscade in Pigalle, Paris. Now an Afrovegan restaurant. The décor has remained almost identical to when Cesaria Evora used to frequent it.

And even in Boa Vista, you can find traces of the great singer. Paying homage to the Morna lighthouse, with its majestic landscapes and unique magnetism. Or spending an evening at l'Embuscade 2 with Silvino, who knew her and frequented her during her time in Paris.

Silvino once managed L'Embuscade in Pigalle, a venue known for being a meeting place for Cesária Évora and other Cape Verdean artists during their stays in Europe. Listening to his anecdotes allows us to understand the human side of the Morna star, offering a valuable testimony to the bond between Cape Verde and its diaspora.

 

The Great Singers of Morna, Funaná and Coladeira

Silvino in his bar L'embuscade deux in Sal Rei Boa Vista

Besides the legendary Cesária Évora, Cape Verdean music boasts talents who have innovated and popularized the archipelago's unique rhythms. These artists are essential for anyone who wants to explore Cape Verdean culture through its rhythms.

Tito Paris: The Master of the Coladeira

Born in Mindelo, Tito Paris is a key figure in Creole music. While an excellent performer of morna , he is particularly celebrated for his mastery of coladeira (a livelier, more rhythmic, often danceable genre) and funaná (the frenetic rhythm supported by the accordion, the gaita ). After moving to Lisbon, he became a key figure for the Cape Verdean community in Portugal, founding his own band and bringing coladeira and funaná to international stages.

Lura: The Elegance of the New Morna

Born in Portugal to Cape Verdean parents, Lura is one of the most elegant and recognizable voices of the new generation. Her interpretation of the morna is sweet, modern, and deeply emotional, serving as a bridge between tradition and contemporary sounds. She has captivated European audiences with albums such as Di Korpu Ku Alma and M'bem di Fora , helping keep the morna (and the sodade ) alive for new generations.

Mayra Andrade: Fusion and Rhythms from Around the World

Mayra Andrade , originally from the island of Santiago , is the artist who best embodies the fusion and globalization of Cape Verdean music. Her works seamlessly span morna , funaná, batuque, and jazz, Brazilian, and African influences. With her vibrant stage presence and innovative approach, Mayra has revitalized Creole music, making it accessible to a younger, more international audience.

Other artists to discover: Ildo Lobo: One of the most influential and classic male voices of Morna , direct heir of Cesária Évora, originally from the island of Sal.

Sara Tavares: Who passed away prematurely, she was a highly successful singer-songwriter, born in Lisbon, whose music fused Cape Verdean roots with pop and world music.

Teófilo Chantre: Composer and singer known for his poetic style and his collaboration with Cesária Évora, for whom he wrote many songs.

These artists explore a wide range of Cape Verde’s rich musical genres – from the melancholy of Morna to the energy of Coladeira and Funaná – making the country a true paradise for world music lovers.

The mural made in 3 days

A mural (cover photo) made with a drill in three days by Portuguese artist Vhils has become Cesária Évora.

The project, which features a bas-relief sculpture of the Cape Verdean singer and leading voice of the morna, a musical genre listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO), is the result of a trip the Portuguese artist made to Cape Verde in 2019. Standing 10 meters tall, it transformed the face of the city of Mindelo.